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Алтернативни еколошки видови на градба

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  Quote +Protagorist Quote  Post ReplyReply #101 Posted: 08-May-2014 at 07:44

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  Quote +Protagorist Quote  Post ReplyReply #102 Posted: 10-May-2014 at 15:48
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  Quote +Protagorist Quote  Post ReplyReply #103 Posted: 11-May-2014 at 14:01
Q : I want to build a sweat lodge out of cob but don't
know how to dome the top.
Can you help me?
A: You have several choices. If you want to use pure cob technique, you can simply create a cob dome by corbelling.
Any of the cob handbooks out there (I recommend "The Hand- Sculpted House") will
explain how. A quicker solution would be to weave a sort of inverted basket with flexible sticks, and wattle over that either with
more sticks (and then smear the whole with a
clay-straw plaster) or simply with long straw
dunked in clay (the technique I call "straw
wattle.") Whichever technique you choose,
remember that you will have to put a roof over it or otherwise protect it from the weather if you want it to last very long.

Q: I am contemplating how to build a cob dome
underground. I am aware of the moisture issue and wonder if this can be mitigated? Given your
knowledge what would need be required to
accomplish this task?
A: I would not consider this in any but the very driest of climates (e.g. desert). The risk of possible collapse from saturation is just too high.

Q: Any possibilities of other natural materials holding up?
A: Stone would be a good choice if you are in a very seismically stable area.
Otherwise, gravel-filled bags ("earthbags") could be a possibility. Nothing based on unstabilized earth or containing a high proportion of organic fiber (e.g. straw) is recommended for underground use.
...
http://www.greenhomebuilding.com/QandA/cob/structural.htm


za pod zemja jasno kamen, no za nad zemja komotno moze i kupola od kerpic [1] ili balirana slama 2] vo koj sluchaj bi se dobilo slameno iglo koe ko improvozirano slameno tipi bilo tradicija megju indijancite vo kontinentalna amerika [3] terale krovot neshto nalik slednovo video no bez stranichni zidoi, a vakvite kolibi se tipicni za dosta neolitski kulturi, edinstveno e prashanke koja kako kakva ortoma koristela, najverojatno i zlebovi koristele i pri ovoj princip na konusni kolibi







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  Quote +Protagorist Quote  Post ReplyReply #104 Posted: 11-May-2014 at 17:56

tipito zaradi nomadskiot nacin na zivot najchesto e pokrieno so kozi, dodeka ko trajna gradba vakvite ovalni kukji i vo neolit i vo antika pa i vo sreden vek gi prekrivale so snopoi slama

pretpostavuvam za baliran krov treba pokrivka pa kje dojde teshko istata da e prirodna a vodootporna em osoben problem ako e kupola vo prashanje, mozebi reshenie vo tpj sluchaj bi bilo malterot nadvoreshno da se glazira so brener t.e. zavrshniot sloj da bide od fin sloj kaolin koj bi kristaliziral vo porcelan, no duri i da e izvodlivo ova posekako e komplicirano i neizvesno reshenie

zato slamen krov i choek mirno da spie, no ne sekoj go biva za ova, ko shto eto ima kursovi samo za zemjani gradbi ima posebni i za slameni krovoi [1][2][3] interesno e shto vakvite krovoi gi ima i vo Japonija [1][2][3]

Thatching is one of the oldest building crafts and it led to the development of Building Control following extensive fires in London and today, the building regulations for the use of thatching as a roof covering are J, B and L.

Keith Quantrill knowledge of this industry was excellent and he informed the audience that the current minimum recommended pitch for a thatched roof is 45°. He also reported that the products used in thatching today are combed wheat reed, longstraw, sedge grass and water reed (with a life expectancy of 60 years) together with hazel
ridge details and fixings.


www.soliftec.com/thatch.htm









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  Quote +Protagorist Quote  Post ReplyReply #105 Posted: 12-May-2014 at 19:11

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  Quote +Protagorist Quote  Post ReplyReply #106 Posted: 12-May-2014 at 22:00





cim i arhitekti preferiraat vakov krov defakto ne e nekoj oldskul hir iako denes e skapa pojava slamen krov







Edited by +Protagorist - 12-May-2014 at 22:11
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  Quote +Protagorist Quote  Post ReplyReply #107 Posted: 26-May-2014 at 19:11

kaj nas tradicija od sekogas bile keramidi dal kameni il glineni pa i drveni, vo zavisnost shto e na raspolaganje i kakvo e podnebjeto, sepak najoriginalna i najizdrzliva e kamenata keramida od shkrilci koja e lesna i za obrabotka [1] iako moze da se tera i arpadzik ko na prvovo video ili polu arpadzik ko na vtoroto, a moze i esnafski da se pokriva ko na tretoto video







Za 1 m2 krova već prema podrijetlu škriljca te izvedbi krova treba planirati između 50 do 150 €. Zato krov od škriljca izdrži oko 200 godina. Čak se spominju i neki krovovi stari i do 400 godina. Slaba točka su ranije bili čavli. Sada su oni vruće pocinčani. Treba voditi računa da krovopokrivač učvrsti svaku ploču s najmanje 3 čavla. Ukoliko se neka ploča treba zamijeniti, tada pomaže kuka za popravke.   http://www.gradimo.hr/clanak/krovovi-od-skriljca/13478
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  Quote +Protagorist Quote  Post ReplyReply #108 Posted: 28-May-2014 at 15:41


neshto pomegju slamen i kamen krov e drven krov odnosno so drvena shindra, vo isto vreme e najlesna opcija sepak ne i za veterlivi mesta

patem isklucitelen aber vo videovo, veli 80 god netretirana drvena shindra moze da trae, pretpostavuvam istretirana so firnajz duplo kje tera, tuku evo info i za konjot [1][2]

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  Quote +Protagorist Quote  Post ReplyReply #109 Posted: 17-Jun-2014 at 11:08

дрвената шиндра може да се користи и фасадно, а денес и во случај на кров но и фасада - претежно врз излорина подлога [1]







Edited by +Protagorist - 17-Jun-2014 at 11:08
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  Quote +Protagorist Quote  Post ReplyReply #110 Posted: 18-Jun-2014 at 09:54

neznam zoshto tolku maka okolu poedinecni plochki koga moze talpi da odat i fasadno pa i na krov, poentata e deka poedinechno istete lesno se krpat ili menuvaat, no so seta ovaa hemija od premazi denes ne veruvam deka drvoto lesno kje popushti, a i ekoloshkisamo so firnajzda se istretira e dovolno, eventualno spoevite so mov i katranda se pominat i eto zdrava pokrivka, pod predpostavka deka estetikata i stilot ne se nekoj faktor iako i tie moze da se stokmat

dobar primer za ova se dosta baraki ko pojavachii dzidovi porano do pojavata na osb-plochite teraa do edna so talpi po zidoite, no dobro e da se vidi kako toa moze i ekoloshki da se istera ko vo sluchajot na woodsman cottage od GD-s03e03 kade so talpite rechisi krenal choekot parna brana okolu slamenata kukja (26 min. vo videovo)





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  Quote +Protagorist Quote  Post ReplyReply #111 Posted: 24-Jun-2014 at 17:28

анти-запалива опција која ко flame retardant се користи и по душеци и по вештачка изолација е Борна-киселина а која неретко ја прскаат и на балирани ѕидови

исто ја мешаат и со Боракс како антифунгицид [1] Borax has the added advantage of fighting fungal infestations and some insects. [2]
To lower your risk of ever getting an infestation I suggest you treat your bales during installation with borax. Just a gentle sprinkle of borax on each course of bales during installation can be very helpful for eliminating any pest problems. I want to be clear here, I have only twice seen this situation actually happen in a bale structure and I do not use borax on any of the homes I build. I make the suggestion only for those homes that are at high risk. For example, homes that will likely experience high moisture levels in the walls due to a lack of dehumidifying system and high relative humidity in the environment. Otherwise, I don’t think the borax is necessary. [3]


¬

исто и за волната ко изолација може да се користи бораксот иако самата волна е донекаде огнотпорна - 100% organic wool which is naturally flame-resistant. Even if you hold a match to wool, it will self-extinguish in moments [1][2] сепак изложена на појак оган посекако ќе ќумурдиса [3] сепак корисно е истата да се истретира со боракс заради бубачки, а имам чуено дека доколку истата не се испере заради миризбата поотпорна е на штеточини, но доколку се користи внатрешно ко изолација тогаш логично е да се испере а уште пологично и да се истретира со боракс
Q: I have interest in trying to make my own wool insulation. Do you know anyone who has had success with this process?
A: I will give you the most clear method that I have heard of as follows:
1) Clean wool.
2) Treat with Borax. You want to treat the wool with Borax (commonly sold as "20 Mule Team Borax Laundry Additive") to repel insects. Borax is also used as a fire retardant. If you are using the washing machine to clean the wool you could add the Borax instead of fabric softener. Otherwise dissolve Borax in hot water to make a solution and spray on the wool as you lay or hang it to dry. Do not rinse it out. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find out how much Borax you should use.
3)Card the wool.
4) Make batts.You can now get strips of kraft paper to attach the wool to. [1]


¬
а за стравот од борна киселина еве и тро утеха
FACT: Boric acid is one type of flame retardant material, made of the elements hydrogen, oxygen and boron. Boron is an essential part of a healthy human diet and is a beneficial ingredient in many multi-vitamin tablets. Boron, typically in the form of boric acid, is a naturally-occurring element found in fruits, vegetables, grains and nuts. In fact, the average person eats between 1 and 3 milligrams (mg) of boron each day as part of a normal healthy diet. That is equivalent to about 6 to 17 mg of boric acid. Although boric acid is widely used as an effective insecticide, boric acid is safe for humans because insects and humans process boric acid in completely different ways. Based on normal consumer use patterns, the inhalation, dermal (skin) and oral exposure to boric acid through contact with mattresses is 1000 times less than EPA’s threshold level, and is also well below conservative human health criteria established by the Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (ASTDR) within the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services and the National Academy of Sciences (NAS). In fact, a single six-ounce glass of grape juice contains many times more boric acid than a consumer would be exposed to from sleeping on a mattress that meets the new flammability standard. [1]


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  Quote +Protagorist Quote  Post ReplyReply #112 Posted: 02-Jul-2014 at 21:47



http://www.kleiwerks.org/8-ways-to-maneuver-the-permitting-process-for-natural-building/

focus is on the use of local, natural and free materials, rapid construction, solutions for areas that suffer natural disasters, and buildings that can be made without machines or electricity, including:

Natural wall systems: Adobe, strawdobe, cob, slipstraw, wattle and daub, paja reke, chorizo, strawbale, compressed earth block, super adobe/earth bag
Wood-fired heating and cooking systems: An earthen stove, earthen oven, solar cooker
Foundation systems: Drainage, foundations, earthen floors
Roof systems: Living roofs, connections to earthen walls
, water catchment
Natural finishes: Exterior and interior earthen plasters and paints, sculpture
Building systems: Installation of windows, doors, electric, plumbing
Wood building: Timber framing and/or round pole construction, bamboo in temperate climates
Design systems: Permaculture, passive solar, “A Pattern Language”
Water and waste systems: Rainwater and waste catchment, filtration, and re-use





Edited by +Protagorist - 02-Jul-2014 at 21:48
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  Quote +Protagorist Quote  Post ReplyReply #113 Posted: 02-Jul-2014 at 21:49

   
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  Quote +Protagorist Quote  Post ReplyReply #114 Posted: 14-Jul-2014 at 17:57
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  Quote +Protagorist Quote  Post ReplyReply #115 Posted: 14-Jul-2014 at 18:15

   

ta i vrzuvanjeto e masinsko [1][2]

Вариант с тростниковой кровлей



Свойства материала
Благодаря своей структуре тростник является отличным звукоизолятором, выдерживает значительные механические нагрузки и устойчив к вымораживанию. Для данного объекта специалисты рекомендуют открытую конструкцию кровельного пирога. Она позволит значительно сократить время монтажа и стоимость кровли в целом, так как не требует укладки сплошной обрешетки, паро- и гидробарьера. Плотность камышового пирога — приблизительно 150 кг/м³, вес — 45 кг/м². Необходимо использовать тростник с толщиной стебля не более 6 мм, связанный в снопы. На предложенном объекте с углом наклона стропильной системы 30° срок эксплуатации покрытия может составить 25-30 лет.

Укладка: зоны внимания
Монтаж кровли состоит из нескольких этапов:
1. Сначала тростник готовят к укладке на кровлю, определяя его длину. Короткий тростник укладывают в начале кровли и ближе к концу. Длинный используют на остальной поверхности кровли.
2. Укладывают тростник слоями снизу вверх. Материал выравнивают и плотно притягивают крепежной проволокой к деревянной конструкции. Каждый последующий слой тростника укладывают на расстоянии 200, 150, 280 мм от предыдущего, а затем производят его первичную подбивку. Нижнюю часть снопа отодвигают от ската так, чтобы снаружи находились только последние 2-4 см стеблей.
3. Устанавливают конек. Для этого используют различные материалы и элементы на выбор клиента. Для климатических условий больше подходят специальная коньковая черепица, вереск, солома и другие природные материалы.
4. Окончательно подбивают и чистят покрытие. Идеально ровная и чистая поверхность кровли достигается только благодаря ручной работе мастера с помощью щетки и подбивки специальным инструментом — клоппером. Никакой подрезки, подстрижки или других операций стандарт не допускает.
5. Обязательна противопожарная обработка тростника. Для нее рекомендуют использовать препарат «ФСГ-2» отечественного производства, имеющий сертификат соответствия. Срок службы пропитки — два-три года. Следует отметить, что общий объем работ измеряется по фактически уложенной кровле, которая, как правило, приблизительно на 10% больше, чем площадь кровли, уложенной по стропильной системе. Эта разница возникает за счет свеса кровли и ее толщины.


Схема монтажа тростниковой кровли



Предложенный вариант кровли, конька и виды работ — стандартные. Более экономичные или более дорогие решения для кровли из тростника согласовываются с заказчиком на стадии разработки проекта или монтажа стропильной системы.

Специальные советы
Строительный бум (особенно на индивидуальное жилье), а вместе с ним и развитие экологического сознания населения с каждым годом увеличивают спрос на природные, экологичные материалы, в том числе и на камышовый тростник, солому, сланец, вереск и др. В последние годы все большую популярность приобретает традиционный кровельный материал — камышовый тростник, который благодаря применению новых технологий заготовки и укладки вытесняет материалы искусственного происхождения.



Расчет стоимости монтажа кровли из камыша

http://remstd.ru/archives/5-variantov-pokryitiya-dlya-odnoy-kryishi/



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  Quote +Protagorist Quote  Post ReplyReply #116 Posted: 05-Aug-2014 at 18:31


vo nedostatok od trska lesno se tera krov i so plot od vrbovi pracki pa i lastari od bagrem, definitivno najednostavno so bambus, iako vakvata tehnika tipichno se koristi za pregradni zidovi, pregradi ili koshnici, edinstveno kaj krovot treba dopolnitelna pokrivka dali od najlon ili lisja

http://www.build.mk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=835&PID=126944#126944

http://helsieshappenings.blogspot.com/2010/09/whats-wattle.html



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  Quote +Protagorist Quote  Post ReplyReply #117 Posted: 18-Sep-2014 at 18:21

сребро стакло дрво, уште газијки фалат http://royaleprojects.com/lucid-stead













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  Quote +Protagorist Quote  Post ReplyReply #118 Posted: 04-Oct-2014 at 21:04

ednostavno i brzo dolovena samoodrzlivost

im fali samo bunar i veternica [1] po moznost futuristichi tunel od slama



Edited by +Protagorist - 28-Sep-2015 at 23:41
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  Quote +Protagorist Quote  Post ReplyReply #119 Posted: 10-Oct-2014 at 22:07

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/SB-r-us/info

сценава конкретно непотребно потрошено време и снага, а можеле со кипер далеку побрзо да поминат, па и слајдер на сајла, сепак убаво е да се има сложни комшии со вишок време и волја ем доволно донирана храна од нивна страна



http://maikotobybomber.blogspot.com/2009/12/happy-new-year-from-square-one.html

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  Quote +Protagorist Quote  Post ReplyReply #120 Posted: 22-Oct-2014 at 15:58
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